Attaching glass to cabinet doors

[Dick Sylvan]

use some quarter round (finished like the rest of the piece) and attached with clear silicone caulk.

[Frank Martin]

I have used the clear silicone caulk on several projects, never had a problem. I got that suggestion from the glass shop where I purchased glass and mirror. They had items in display installed in this same manner.

However, I agree that quarter round will provide a better look if that is important for you.

[Fred Craven]

For kitchen type cabinets, clear silicon is the way to go. Be sure all finish is applied first, and don't get too messy. Lay your door flat put a bead of caulk on the inside, and set the glass. If done correctly the caulk will smoothly squish to the edge of the glass on the back and the edge of the moulding in on the front. I actually smooth out the back with my finger--lubricated with mineral spirits. DON'T mess with the front, let it be, and cut of the bead after it dries with a razor blade.

For bigger applications, like an actual door, I recently used a thick urethane, or butyl, caulk based on the recommendation of the glass dealer. This is THICK stuff--like what they use on your car windshield, so you'll need a good caulk gun. I happen to have a caulk gun designed for thick stuff which I use for everything, so it was no problem. This is a good way to go for big pieces of glass (tempered of course).

Whatever caulk used, it will keep things from rattling. Then, if desired, you can dress up the inside of door with some moulding (which I did on the big doors).

Fred

[Jeff Raymond]

I use little strips of wood, predrilled for brads. Put a tad of glazing compond on surfaces facing the glass and install very carefully.

You wind up with a kind of flexible installation that looks good and is very traditional.

I generally believe that the way the old guys did is best and avoid the newer materials.

But then you ought to hear me on other topics.

Good luck!

[Fred Craven]

I use little strips of wood, predrilled for brads. Put a tad of glazing compond on surfaces facing the glass and install very carefully.

You wind up with a kind of flexible installation that looks good and is very traditional. I generally believe that the way the old guys did is best and avoid the newer materials.

That was the third option I was going to mention But I haven't done it yet. An architect friend of mine recommended it, including filling in the gap between the edge of the glass and the side of the rabbet with the putty as well.

[Michael Weber]

Timely question. I am installing my glass now. I have been simply putting the glass into the frames and applying a bead of silicon around the back of the glass and onto the side of the rabbit the glass sits in. I'm not setting the glass into the silicon. Am I going to have problems? The one door I have done seems okay but sure don't want the glass to fall out.

[Frank Martin]

I have been doing it this way with no problems.

Timely question. I am installing my glass now. I have been simply putting the glass into the frames and applying a bead of silicon around the back of the glass and onto the side of the rabbit the glass sits in. I'm not setting the glass into the silicon. Am I going to have problems? The one door I have done seems okay but sure don't want the glass to fall out.

[Eugene A. Manzo III]

I used both small beads of silicon with 1/4 round retainer and no rattles at all on 16 small glass panels in two cabinet doors,

[Per Swenson]

Yes sir. silicone and a 23 g pinner.

And If ya practice with one of those

Lee valley hand held molding cutters....

You can glaze 4 nine panel glass cab doors in a hour.

Did I mention we are thrifty too?

Really.

We haven't purchased new glass for a cabinet in years.

It grows on the suburban sidewalks here, every time

some one throws out a charming chunk of art.

Garage sale picture frames are about 2 for a dollar also.

I only mention this now because when fit comes time

to glass your cabinets, glass is the last thing you buy.

Nah. Start collecting now.

Don't forget the quarter inch plate for shelves also.

Per

Per.

[Greg Deakins]

In my experience, silicone varies in dependability. Make sure it is "adhesive" silicone, not just a sealant. I have usually use silicone, a small bead in the door, set glass, a small bead afterward, pin nail some trim. On a restoration project, I used glazing compound in exchange for the second bead of silicone, and eliminated the trim. but that will take some time to set up, up to two weeks. The benefit is appearance, and ease of glass replacement.

[Matt Meiser]

I've used silicone as well when I converted two of our existing kitchen cabinet doors from raised panel to glass panel doors. For a piece of fine furniture, I'd have probably used a wood molding.

[Ron Hildreth]

If you're using just silicon to "glue" the glass in place, this will work just fine for the first time. But bare in mind that if you ever need to replace the glass and use silicon agian- silicon will not stick to silicon, and you'll have to eventually use some other retention method.

Ron in Iowa

[Jim O'Dell]

No one has mentioned the little rubber Space Balls! I know that they are for wooden panels, but should work for glass as well. Something I saw a year ago or so, maybe here at SMC, was squeezing out a small bead, 1/8" round, of silicone and let it dry, then cut it into small strips, say 1/4" long, and use like the Space Balls. Cheaper and worked the same way.
I'd think a bead of silicone in the channel, then put on the wood trim against it would would work just fine. Just let the silicone cure with the glas in the horizontal poosition! Jim.

[James Stokes]

If you want to get rid of the rattle,use cork between the door and the glass. Use quarter round on the back pressing down hard.

For doors that size 1/8 inch glass would be fine.