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Thread: Glass Engraving

  1. #1
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    Glass Engraving

    What is the purpose of putting wet paper (newspaper, paper towel, etc) on glass - such as a wine glass - when you engrave it?

    Does it improve appearance of the engraving? If so, what is the difference between engraving it "bare" vs. "wet" please.

    Thanks, Pete

  2. #2
    Pete,

    IMHO, it makes a huge difference in the cracks that the laser will make in the glass surface. The wet towel keeps the heat concentrated on the spot versus letting it spider out like a rock in a windshield. Obviously a lot smaller basis...

    When I'm doing plain text like block lettering, I won't worry about using the paper towel in most cases.

    When I have intricate font or a graphic, I absolutely use it. If you try to put two dots (or more) really close without the paper, you'll have chip out's that will ruin the design.

    When I do anything that may be introduced to heat/cold over and over, I absolutely use it (wine glasses etc). I'm not sure, but I'd hate for an uncontrolled split to run out in the hot cycle of the dishwasher...

    Again - all my opinion and you'll get several more. BTW - my favorite paper towel to use is the plain brown paper towel commonly used in restroom towel systems. Seems to hold water longer and easier to wet than paper towel. DON'T use some paper source with quilted or other patterns - it will transfer onto the glass.
    Steve Beckham

    Epilog Mini 24 with 45 Watt, Ricoh GX 7000 Sublimation, Corel X3, Corel X4 and PhotoGrav, Recently replaced the two 'used' SWF machines with brand new Barudans.

  3. #3
    You might also try using a 70% grey instead of pure black. It tends to spread the laser pulses out a bit and reduces the chipping and scaling that you sometimes see on glass.
    Mike Ireland
    Universal Laser Systems, Inc.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Ireland View Post
    You might also try using a 70% grey instead of pure black. It tends to spread the laser pulses out a bit and reduces the chipping and scaling that you sometimes see on glass.
    I hear this depends on the laser...I have an Epilog and the % gray technique (I tried 50, 60, 70, and 80%) didn't work well for me at all. Left the edges very fuzzy.
    -Garrett Nors

    45w Epilog Helix ♦ Dahlgren Wizzard 2000ST (currently down for the count) ♦ CorelDRAW X3 ♦ Adobe Illustrator & Photoshop CS4

  5. #5
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    I use dishwashing soap applied to the glass and the blue shop towels wet. The shop towel brand allows you to conform to the shape of the glass.
    Brian Robison
    MetalMarkers
    Epilog Mini
    Rabbit 1290

  6. #6
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    What about PPI or Frequency (depending on laser) - what do you guys run - or does that not come into play when doing raster engraving?

    Would a lower PPI reduce chipping and chance of the item cracking while engraving?

  7. #7
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    People will disagree but I use 600dpi.
    I've tried everything for fine detail that was suggested.
    My best results were using soap and shop towels and 600dpi. Bump up the power (or slow the speed) to compensate for the radius of the glass and set the focus between the high spot and the low spot of the graphic.
    Brian Robison
    MetalMarkers
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    Rabbit 1290

  8. #8
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    I like the quality of 600 dpi on glass, but only use that if it is a known glass or I have some spare bits to experiment on.

    I find that the variability between different glasses and different colours of the same type of glass is largely overcome by engraving at 300 dpi.

    In a nutshell, 300dpi = coarser result but more consistent.

  9. #9
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    Why? Because Frank said so. Nuff said! lol
    If Frank said rub fresh buffalo dung on it before lasering, a lot of folks would wonder about it, but there would still be a rush on buffalo dung the next day.
    John & Alicia Love
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  10. #10
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    He told you that trick too? I thought that it was a little messy getting it into the laser, but it seemed to work for me too!!!!
    Epilog Mini 24 - 45 Watt, Corel Draw X5, Wacom Intuos Tablet, Unengraved HP Laptop, with many more toys to come.....





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  11. #11
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    glass engraving

    The best way to "see" the difference is to test this on some scrap window glass.. I did this with the word "TEST" in bold font at several different sizes. I rastered plain, with wet paper, with DW layer, with wetpaper over the DW layer. I think the result will tell you what works best on your laser.

    hth, nancyB
    Xenetech xlt1325,
    Corel 13,
    Rayzist 2034 blastcabinet

  12. #12
    Over here I see people using wet newspaper a lot on glass and plexi.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by John W. Love View Post
    Why? Because Frank said so. Nuff said! lol
    If Frank said rub fresh buffalo dung on it before lasering, a lot of folks would wonder about it, but there would still be a rush on buffalo dung the next day.
    I tried buffalo dung, the results turned out pretty crappy...
    Epilog 24TT(somewhere between 35-45 watts), CorelX4, Photograv(the old one, it works!), HotStamping, Pantograph, Vulcanizer, PolymerPlatemaker, Sandblasting Cabinet, and a 30 year collection of Assorted 'Junque'

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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Cunningham View Post
    I tried buffalo dung, the results turned out pretty crappy...
    Keep your opinions to yourself... no need to cause a stink.
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Hintz View Post
    Keep your opinions to yourself... no need to cause a stink.
    Ooops sorry, I didn't mean to 'step' in it..Been There Dung That
    Epilog 24TT(somewhere between 35-45 watts), CorelX4, Photograv(the old one, it works!), HotStamping, Pantograph, Vulcanizer, PolymerPlatemaker, Sandblasting Cabinet, and a 30 year collection of Assorted 'Junque'

    Every time you make a typo, the errorists win

    I Have to think outside the box.. I don't fit in it anymore


    Experience is a wonderful thing.
    It enables you to recognize a mistake when you make it again.


    Every silver lining has a cloud around it




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