If the face is inset, the drawer slides will push the face against the cabinet, and make a noise (but you just bought silent slides). If it is flush, the slides will stop with the face flush. Since nothing is perfect, there may be a tiny gap or a tiny noise. To avoid the noise completely, you could set the slides with the front out slightly, and the face would never touch the cabinet.
I plan my drawer boxes (without the slab attached) to be flush to slightly in. If slamming noise is a problem, small felt or cork pads can be attached to the inside drawer front.
Scott Vroom
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
For overlay doors, I like to set drawer boxes in about 1/16 from faceframe so drawer face hits on faceframe.
This allows for a little fudge room if something is not perfectly perfect.
But as long as there isn't a single bit of drawer box poking proud of your faceframe, you are just fine.
If you do need to move a tandem back, that's where those 150 mounting holes come in handy--stick a couple screws in a couple new holes towards the back of the hole and drive partially. Take out the original screws. Drive the two new screws and you've moved the slide back about 1/16 inch. Put in two more screws and you are done. (you don't need to use all 150 holes )
Last edited by Steve Griffin; 11-30-2011 at 10:19 AM.
Mine are flush if not a tiny bit recessed. I love blum undermounts with blumotion, top notch product.
A bus station is where a bus stops. A train station is where a train stops. My desk is a work station.
Yep, they fit flush so when you put the little plastic bump pads they close perfectly. You've got it right, don't worry.
JeffD