Well yeah, that would definitely make a huge difference.
For perspective: This summer, I split a white oak log into quarters and crosscut the pieces. I started with an 8 tpi saw because that's what was sharp (There's that sharpening thing again). First cut took forever, so I timed a couple. It was taking me 6-7 minutes per cut. Then I stopped and sharpened my 6 tpi saw. First cut took me two and a half minutes. You wouldn't think 2 tpi would make such a dramatic difference, but it did.
So what method/position do you using for sawing Charlie?
The big reason I gave up on Japanese saws was the bent over position to saw on the low saw ponies holding the stock with my feet.
Same here more or less. I find myself doing this more and more for rips of all sizes. But I use a 5 1/2ppi D8 overhand not a bowsaw. I find it much easier than kneeling, though for xcuts I do kneel on my saw bench if the piece is too wide to efficiently xcut with a back saw at the bench hook.
Woodworking is terrific for keeping in shape, but it's also a deadly serious killing system...
Couple of more questions:
How does the bow saw compare to the western handsaw in use?
I remember seeing Schwarz on The Woodwright's Shop and he talked about ripping at the bench. I don't have a tail vise so I'm not sure how to secure it. Anybody tried this method?
I don't use my tail vise when I rip at the bench. Just use some f-clamps or holdfasts to secure it to the bench.
Woodworking is terrific for keeping in shape, but it's also a deadly serious killing system...
Jeeze, David.. I'd have thought you'd have a Rip Stop saw bench. You know the kind:
* Electronic sensor to detect contact with a metal blade,
* Saw Stop (tm) cartridge propells #12 boot into your booty!!
* No repeat offenses.
<j/k>, of course!!
One can never have too many planes and chisels... or so I'm learning!!
I use holdfasts on one of my sawbenches to handle long boards, without using my knees as a clamp.
Acharaya Kumarswami built his design using this, and it works well for me as well.
Bowsaws are faster, but the amount of set in most blades needs to be reduced.
This picture doesn't really do it justice, it's even nastier than the picture looks. (It looks like I lied, it's a 2x12 and part of a 2x4).
IMG_20130711_212555_857.jpg
Last edited by David Weaver; 07-12-2013 at 7:53 AM.
Tage Frid use to swear that bowsaws are under appreciated in the US. I think there is a greater tradition involving their use in Europe. Tage made his rips with the work fastened to the bench, standing up, with a bowsaw. Tage claimed that one can use the entire body without getting as tired using a bowsaw. He also admitted that there is a little longer learning curve with a bowsaw. Tage used a bandsaw and tablesaw for processing full length lumber, rips and resawing.
I tried a poorly made bowsaw Highland Woodworking stocked back when Tage use to do classes there. It was not a user friendly tool for me. I recently purchased a 400mm Woodjoy bowsaw. The Woodjoy saw is well a joy to use, especially compared to the original saw I tried. The Japanese Turbo blades are a big help. I think one of the problems with bowsaws is, although there are some great saws available through hand tool specialty shops, there just are not many options when it comes to blades, other than the Japanese Turbo blades. I think this may be why Tage advocated hand filling bowsaw blades with rip teeth.
I opted for a bandsaw for long rips and resawing. I think many other hand tool fans use a bandsaw too.