Hi-Tec Designs, LLC -- Owner (and self-proclaimed LED guru )
Trotec 80W Speedy 300 laser w/everything
CAMaster Stinger CNC (25" x 36" x 5")
USCutter 24" LaserPoint Vinyl Cutter
Jet JWBS-18QT-3 18", 3HP bandsaw
Robust Beauty 25"x52" wood lathe w/everything
Jet BD-920W 9"x20" metal lathe
Delta 18-900L 18" drill press
Flame Polisher (ooooh, FIRE!)
Freeware: InkScape, Paint.NET, DoubleCAD XT
Paidware: Wacom Intuos4 (Large), CorelDRAW X5
I don't see any reason why CeraMark would be faster. I think the people using the Moly spray just happen to have never tried it at the same time as CeraMark because they don't want to spend $75 to compare them.
Do we think these will work?
http://www.amazon.com/ANTI-SEIZE-TEC...6885209&sr=8-2
http://www.amazon.com/CRC-Quick-Moly...885462&sr=8-12
I ordered both and will report back on April 1st.
Last edited by Robert Silvers; 03-20-2015 at 5:09 PM.
Triumph TR-9060 with 5200 Chiller and 100 watt Z4 RECI.
Does this on other metals such as aluminum, chrome plated steel, etc. or just stainless?
Thanks.
I can mark SS directly without any Cermark or moly spray. I don't make a practice of this because the reflected beam might cause damage to my optics. I learned not to do this when marking a curved part sent the reflected beam into my red laser and destroyed it.
ernie
Rabbit 1290 80W RECI
Shopbot PRS Alpha
Aspire, Corel, Signlab, and many more
Gerber Edge and 2 vinyl cutters
plus a shop full of woodworking and metalworking machines
I happen to have a very dependable local supplier, just a short drive up into the san juan mountains to the climax molybdenum mine
Don Corbeil
_________________
Trotec Speedy 300 (80W) w/rotary
CorelDraw Graphics Suite x6
PhotoGrav v.3
AutoCAD 2000i
I recently played with Dry Moly thanks to finding this particular topic via Google, it sure works a treat.
Cermark in Australia is about $150 (sold by Trotec Australia), there's another company that makes a clone of Cermark for about $110 (O'Brien Engineering).
Dry Moly spray costs about $23 at an industrial hardware shop www.blackwoods.com.au (sadly one of the few in the country that actually stock dry moly).
I've done a few tests last night and seems to work well, so after I'm done tweaking the power vs speed, I'll probably start having a go at engraving a mug or flask.
One thing I've noticed in trying to figure out which Cermark to purchase is that in looking at the MSDS of all of the Ferro items, (Cermark and Thermark) is that Molybdenum Disulfite is NOT the constituent in ANY of the formulas. it is Molydbenum Trioxide. A much different substance. And they all contain Mica and at least one metal, Iron, nickel, chromium or manganese. I expect we have a chemical reaction with the trioxide and the mica (form of silica which is another chemical in several formulas) and the metal. The Disulfite might work to a degree, but the sulfur might be getting in the way.
But that is the problem with the moly lubes.
I'm kind of tempted to buy some of each of the chemicals in the formulas and play with making my own..... only about $50 to try and I'll have everything about the time my laser shows up...... But % of each is proprietary and I think it would be hard to determine. I really don't want to pay relatively big $ for the Cermark, but I for sure don't want to run at 10% of the speed either. Kind of defeats the purpose of reducing cost.
Woodworking, Old Tools and Shooting
Ray Fine RF-1390 Laser Ray Fine 20watt Fiber Laser
SFX 50 Watt Fiber Laser
PM2000, Delta BS, Delta sander, Powermatic 50 jointer,
Powermatic 100-12 planer, Rockwell 15-126 radial drill press
Rockwell 46-450 lathe, and 2 Walker Turner RA1100 radial saws
Jet JWS18, bandsaw Carbide Create CNC, RIA 22TCM 1911s and others
This may not be accurate (no stretch), but--
One of my wife's hobbies is ceramics. She/we haven't messed with them in years, but we still have a kiln, and a garage full of molds. One of the things that always intrigued me was the change that takes place in a 2000° kiln, whereas fragile clay greenware turns pure white and hard as stone...
Ergo, I've always considered the distinct possibility that, because intense heat is a common denominator, CERmark may contain at least some ingredients found in CERamic slip; soda ash, talc, sodium silicate, barium carbonate, whatever's in the different clays, or possibly ingredients in porcelain, etc... But then, I'm no Walter White
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ELEVEN - rotary cutter tool machines
FOUR - CO2 lasers
THREE- make that FOUR now - fiber lasers
ONE - vinyl cutter
CASmate, Corel, Gravostyle
Kind of my thoughts as well. Like I posted, I'm leaning towards experimentation
Woodworking, Old Tools and Shooting
Ray Fine RF-1390 Laser Ray Fine 20watt Fiber Laser
SFX 50 Watt Fiber Laser
PM2000, Delta BS, Delta sander, Powermatic 50 jointer,
Powermatic 100-12 planer, Rockwell 15-126 radial drill press
Rockwell 46-450 lathe, and 2 Walker Turner RA1100 radial saws
Jet JWS18, bandsaw Carbide Create CNC, RIA 22TCM 1911s and others
Yeah Great I found this because I was holding back on all Metal Engraving because Cermark is way to expensive.
Got the Dry Moly and tried it out Yesterday, I'm quite happy with the result.
This is made with two layers of Dry Moly, let dry for an hour, engrave with 225m/s and 65% power in RDWorks, which on my machine is equal to around 100W.
And yes I know the logo is "hanging" to low
Flask.jpg
Last edited by Klaus Madsen; 11-02-2016 at 2:00 AM.
RedSail M900 - 100W Laser with RECI Tube and Rotary.
I'll have to locate some 'dry' moly- I have tons of 'wet' moly - a quart can of MP-50 Moly Paste and a can of Moly spray lube--
no matter how I've tried using them, they do absolutely nothing except stink up the joint...
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ELEVEN - rotary cutter tool machines
FOUR - CO2 lasers
THREE- make that FOUR now - fiber lasers
ONE - vinyl cutter
CASmate, Corel, Gravostyle