Most of my mouth adjustment is done to close the mouth when rounding over corners. When approaching the wood at odd angles it helps to regulate the amount of wood the blade can bite.
jtk
Most of my mouth adjustment is done to close the mouth when rounding over corners. When approaching the wood at odd angles it helps to regulate the amount of wood the blade can bite.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
Frankly, ANYTHING will be a huge upgrade after a Stanley #102 !!!!
Of course, you could go for one of these: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRev...k%20Plane.html
If you are trying to keep costs down, try and get a vintage Stanley #60 1/2 or the Miller Falls/Record equivalent.
If you want to spend more, it is a choice between full size or small block planes. The best two full size are the LN #60 1/2 and the LV DX60. There is a comparison here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRev...lockPlane.html
The LV is easier to adjust and has the better blade. The LN is a little more comfortable to hold.
The smaller, fixed mouth block planes are the LN #103, LN#102 and the LV Apron Plane. The #103 is a standard angle bed, while the other two are low angle.
In my opinion, the small, fixed bed block planes should be purchased after the larger, adjustable mouth block planes. Jim makes a valid point about the use of adjustable mouths used at an angle. The small, fixed mouth planes excel at trimming/chamfering edges. I have the LN #103 which has a higher cutting angle.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Hey Derek,
How's that compendium of block planes write-up coming along?
Woodworking is terrific for keeping in shape, but it's also a deadly serious killing system...
Shawn
"no trees were harmed in the creation of this message, however some electrons were temporarily inconvenienced."
"I resent having to use my brain to do your thinking"
I somehow have accumulated ... ah.... several block planes. I do prefer ones with depth and lateral adjusters and moveable toe plates.
I'm with Prashun on this and it may be a hand size thing. I have block planes but, find I reach for the Lee Valley "Apron" plane (which is similar in size to the LN 102) more often than not for block plane jobs. I do have a ball-tail for my low angle block plane and use it sort of like a No.3 at times so in the area of versatility, the adjustable mouth and larger size pay off. For what I consider small work though, a standard block plane is often over-sized for the task for me.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Say, does anyone know if one of the Veritas pm-V11 blades will work in a Lie Lielsen 60 1/2?
If so, that combined with the Howard adjuster upgrade would make a mighty sweet tool.
I'd love a longer-lasting edge, but I dislike the feel of the original LV LABP, and I personally think their new block planes are ridiculously gaudy looking. I don't think I could ever bring myself to buy one of those, despite the performance.