Originally Posted by
Montgomery Scott
Bob,
Do the plastic resin glues require a higher temp to sure or will they cure in colder temps, but take longer to do so? I live just north of Everett so winter time presents the problems of lower temps in my shop (~50F).
How well does plastic resin glue work for woods in the dalbergia genus? I have not been real happy with any glue for segmented turning. Epoxy can leave a thicker glue line than I like (I've used System 3), I've had PU glues separate before, though the couple of failures I've had may be due to some of the wood having a MC that was >10% and was still shrinking and I've experienced the glue creek of PVA's.
They won't cure in cold temperatures, period. Neither will epoxy, BTW....it'll harden, but of you test it you'll find it's not as strong. 70 degrees for resin (URAC was developed to have a wider temperature range and to fill gaps), and at least 50 degrees for epoxy. Go to Goodwill and buy an old heat blanket when in doubt.
Cocobolo and other tropicals can be hard to glue, even with resorcinol, because of oil, and it can vary from board to board. Smith Enterprises of Rot Doctor fame claims to have an epoxy formulated specifically for tropicals. But I'd prefer resin for your turnings because it has the cleanest glue line of all of them by far. I'd test it on some freshly-planed scraps, alternating whether you wipe first with acetone or not.
““Perhaps then, you will say, ‘But where can one have a boat like that built today?’ And I will tell you that there are still some honest men who can sharpen a saw, plane, or adze...men (who) live and work in out of the way places, but that is lucky, for they can acquire materials for one third of city prices. Best, some of these gentlemen’s boatshops are in places where nothing but the occasional honk of a wild goose will distract them from their work.” -- L Francis Herreshoff