Replacement Guide Bearing for G0555 band saw

[Greg Vaughn]

I was giving my Grizzly 14" G0555 band saw a a needed tune up over the weekend. A couple of my side guide bearings (one top, one bottom) were frozen up. I soaked them in WD40 for a few hours, which improved them a bit. I could turn them, but with more resistance than the others. I'm looking at replacing them. I could order a new set from Grizzly, but I wonder if its cheaper to source them somewhere else. I assume these are pretty standard bearings. Has anyone done this? I can find industrial supply houses on the internet, but the choices they have in bearings are bewildering. What type do I need?

I live near Dallas, so on the off chance any readers here know of a local source, that would be appreciated too.

[John Strait]

This is the item number, 7190069035, on fleabay that I purchased as replacements for mine. They are a perfect match. The size is 8mm X 22mm X 7mm. I was told that the higher the "ABEC" code the tighter the tolerance is on them with 1 being the lowest.

[Hoa Dinh]

I just spent $8 for a set of 2 for my Rockwell BS last week. I bought them from an industrial supply store on the way to work.

I did a quick yellowpages search for "bearing" in Dallas, TX and 2 pages came up. There is at least one near where you live.

Just call up the place, read them the number on the bearings, and tell them you need the best sealed bearings they carry.

[Garry Smith]

I bought a couple at my local Auto Value store last fall.
I do not remember the price but they seem to be a better bearing.
Garry

[Greg Vaughn]

This is the item number, 7190069035, on fleabay that I purchased as replacements for mine. They are a perfect match. The size is 8mm X 22mm X 7mm. I was told that the higher the "ABEC" code the tighter the tolerance is on them with 1 being the lowest.

That's clever. I never thought about inline skates or skateboards needing similar sized bearings. That auction says they have removeable seals for relubrication. I've got mixed feelings on that. I like the idea that I can relube them as needed, but I'm concerned they may need it often. Any experience on this?

I suppose for guide bearings the tolerance isn't critical. Does it really matter if they're 21.9mm or 22.1 mm? I'm adjusting them every time I change the blade anyway.

Just call up the place, read them the number on the bearings, and tell them you need the best sealed bearings they carry.

Here's that sealed issue again. Is it better to get permanently sealed bearings? Also, will any numbers on the bearing really mean anything to them? I thought that was manufacturer specific. I suppose they may have cross-reference catalogs. I was planning on just taking the bearing with me when I go.

I bought a couple at my local Auto Value store last fall.
I do not remember the price but they seem to be a better bearing.
Garry

Is Auto Value one of those chain auto parts stores? I wasn't aware of cars needing similar sized bearings. A month or so ago I was needing a replacement v-belt for my drill press and tried an auto parts store and they were no help. They had none that small. But if bearings in that size are common, then there's an Auto Zone store very convenient to me.

[Garry Smith]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Garry Smith
I bought a couple at my local Auto Value store last fall.
I do not remember the price but they seem to be a better bearing.
Garry

Is Auto Value one of those chain auto parts stores? I wasn't aware of cars needing similar sized bearings. A month or so ago I was needing a replacement v-belt for my drill press and tried an auto parts store and they were no help. They had none that small. But if bearings in that size are common, then there's an Auto Zone store very convenient to me.
Answer:
Any of the auto parts stores should be able to et the bearings using the numbers off of the original bearing.
Yes Auto Value is a chain store in my area.
Garry

[Howard Acheson]

I ordered my G0555 with the alternate CoolBlock guide blocks. They are quieter, provide more support and do not damage themselves or the blade in the event of a mistrack.

A review and test a couple of years ago by Fine Woodworking showed the Cool Blocks to be the best guides for 14" general purpose bandsaws.

You can order the guide supports from Grizzley for under $10 for everything.

[chris del]

This bearing, 8mmx22mmx7m is called a 608ZZ. Same bearings as used on the inline skates and skateboards.
Yes, the lower the ABEC number the higher the precision and tolerances. You are running a bandsaw here not a dentists drill @ 40000 rpm.... The standard chinese made 608 bearings are fine for this application and should not be more than a couple dollars each at the local bearing supply house.

[Greg Vaughn]

I ordered my G0555 with the alternate CoolBlock guide blocks. They are quieter, provide more support and do not damage themselves or the blade in the event of a mistrack.

A review and test a couple of years ago by Fine Woodworking showed the Cool Blocks to be the best guides for 14" general purpose bandsaws.

You can order the guide supports from Grizzley for under $10 for everything.

I hadn't considered that. I too have read good reviews of the Cool Blocks. I just did a quick search at grizzly.com for "cool block" with no matches. I can pull the catalog out tonight.

[Steve Sawyer]

Some basics on bearings.

I too needed to replace some bearings for my Craftsman Professional bandsaw. The shield had come loose on one of them allowing it to become packed with sawdust.

IMO you DO want a permanently sealed bearing. I bought the best bearings they had and they only cost about $7 apiece, and bought some spares that went into the saw cabinet. The bearing is most likely to fail due to contamination rather than either wear or loss of lubricant - the bearing is under neither high loads or high speeds, so you want the quality in the shields and seals to keep the gunk and grit out of the works.

Bearings are one of those things that (thankfully) do actually come in "standard" sizes, using a nomenclature that is indeed standard in the bearing industry. Look in the yellow pages for a listing under "bearings", walk in with a sample and walk out with replacements. They'll read the number off the edge of the race or maybe stamped into the shield. IIRC, the number specifies the basics such as ID, OD and bearing type (needle vs ball). The prefixes and suffixes specify the type of cage that captures the balls or needles, the type of shields and seals. Depending on your luck, you can find them with bearing specialists (the best guarantee of a one-stop shopping experience as well as giving you a chance to match the bearing's shielding to the application), or auto parts stores, or appliance service and parts shops. If the numbers on the side are easily legible, you CAN let your fingers do the walking...

I do business with an industrial outfit called Bearing Service up here in Michigan that has a half-dozen locations.

[Greg Vaughn]

IMO you DO want a permanently sealed bearing. I bought the best bearings they had and they only cost about $7 apiece, ...

Bearings are one of those things that (thankfully) do actually come in "standard" sizes, using a nomenclature that is indeed standard in the bearing industry...

Thanks for the education, Steve. Very helpful. I'll be looking for the best permanently sealed type I can get, but willing to skrimp on tolerance.

[Howard Acheson]

>> I can pull the catalog out tonight.

You need to call them directly. They do not show in the catolog. You want three things. The guide holder (2), the set screws (4) and the Cool Blocks themselves (4). Be sure they supply the brand "Cool Blocks".