Guest
I don't own either one but I know there is a partial climate here. That "Paid Political Announcement" comment is a gas.Originally Posted by Dan Lautner
( see above)
Example: How does the biscut joiner, domino , fit into this thread?
Gary K. PS. Where's Mr. Fogarrty?
Last edited by Gary Keedwell; 08-04-2007 at 1:02 AM. Reason: Clarification
Member
In all fairness the festool plunge saw was not designed for rough construction cuts with out the guide rail and to do so will be in all likeness dangerous. with the last out fit i worked with we had to fabricate wall paneling from pre-finished fin ply on site. the tool of choice was the festool plunge saw. the crew and i got the hang of the saw pretty quickly and fabricated the wall paneling fairly quickly. the second day after the festool arrived one of the frame carpenters grabed the fesstool to cut some cdx rough ply with out the guide, big mistake. , he got some really bad kick back and if it wasn't for the built in riving knife he would have cut into his leg's flesh.
Last edited by Rafael Carias; 08-04-2007 at 12:52 AM. Reason: grammar correction
Member
There are two ways to do it, with the bridge and without the bridge.
The guide rail itself has two tracks, one for bevels, this aligns the blade as such with the anti chip edge so you can trim it for a bevel.
The other way involves setting the bridge at bevel to the work peice.
http://eurekazone.com/gallery/Making...ngs-the-ez-way
Compound Cuts
http://eurekazone.com/gallery/safe-and-fun
On the bridge
http://eurekazone.com/gallery/Bridge...instructions_4
Last edited by Michael Schwartz; 08-04-2007 at 12:48 AM.
Member
I have both and for this operation i recommend the festool over the EZ.
Member
Anyone who wants to buy the EZ system, buy it? Doesn't bother me in the least.
DT
Guest
Frank,
With a new blade and the smart base installed right, you should have no problems with melamine.
You can build-up the pressure on the antichip edges and inserts with painters tape. More pressure to the melamine, less chip out. ( tape on the edges and inserts)
Another way is to set your saw 1/32" deep and make your first cut backwards, second cut at full depth.
Best blade for melamine is the Freud Diablo $15.00 (40 teeth)
Just make sure that you lock the depth lever before you make a backward shallow cut.
If I was cutting multiple pieces, I clean the blade every 20 cuts and make a depth stop for the saw.
You can do that with a spacer on the depth lever.
Good luck and report back....with pictures.
Last edited by Dino Makropoulos; 08-04-2007 at 2:17 AM.
Administrator
The idea of comparing tools with the expectation of finding a winner is a goal that can never be accomplished.
People select the tools they purchase based mostly on their personal situation. An individuals budget, style of woodworking and variety of projects will determine, for the most part, which tool they purchase. Opinions from other respected woodworkers will normally expand ones search efforts but it will rarely effect the outcome of an individuals purchasing habits.
The question "Which one is best" can only be answered by the person asking the question. People certainly have their favorites and some will swear that their brand is clearly the best but it isn't true and it has never been a true statement. Anyone who professes that their personal selection is the best is probably an individual best shunned because they rarely are open to new ideas or are capable of considering all the facts.
An opinion that doesn't consider an individuals needs and personal preferences is worth just two cents. For the life of me I cannot understand how any woodworker could know what tool is the best for any other woodworker. I have known for decades that the best tool for me has to be my choice based on my personal situation. I make my choices based on information that I accumulate through various sources then factor in my needs, personal preference, work habits and my budget.
I normally enjoy reading the opinions of other woodworkers, especially those whose position differs from my own. The reason is that I may find, through another persons experience, that they have found a better way to accomplish a given task and I may learn from their experience. This same reasoning applies to the selection of tools and equipment because I certainly am unable to test every tool personally. I am also unable to use the tools I already own in every situation or combination of projects.
Being labeled a "Tool Snob" by your peers is probably the worst that can happen to anyone who frequents a woodworking forum.
Live and let live folks.........I have no intention of removing this thread because it contains a lot of valuable information. I will, if necessary, adjust access privileges from Member to Guest. I also intend to remove every one of you who has a personal vendetta or business agenda that you attempt to push on this Community.
My apologies to our loyal and friendly Members for the dust lately, we are attempting to clean up a bit.
.
Last edited by Keith Outten; 08-04-2007 at 7:38 AM.
Member
thanks for the response, Dino! you've just saved me $400. the only question now is... what to buy next?!?
Guest
Keith..... Thank-you...Thank-you...Thank-you ,
That , my friend, was a very truthful post. It should be mandatory for any individual to read that post before they put their fingers to the keyboard.
I have to compare a certain kind of individual who discovers a new religion and feels the need to spend every spare minute trying to convert everybody they come in contact with. Most people are polite about it , but deep down inside they are just rolling their eyes and just plain ignoring them.
I have found that woodworking is a down to earth , common sense-driven hobby. That being said, please think twice before you insult people's intellect. Everybody's needs are different. AS to you converters: I suggest you do more posting to those Forums where everybody thinks alike.
Gary K.
Member
You don't need to get the MFT to make square cuts. It's helpful, but for example, how does one make square cuts in a piece of plywood sheathing for a house? You use a square! Draw a line with the square on the plywood and cut to it! Well, you do the same thing with a Festool guide rail; measure in the same distance from one factory cut end, make marks, put the rail on the marks and make your cut.
Visit Peercon.com
Member
Yup, the saw might be dangerous for rough work precisely because of the plunge mechanism. I have had minor kickbacks from carelessly plunging the saw into material too quickly and before the saw was up to speed.
Visit Peercon.com
Administrator
I think there has been some very good input in this thread from people who have personal experience with both systems. There are differences and they need to be taken into account before an educated purchase can be made.
I like the EZ System but it may not be the best tool for others. My needs are simple where the guide systems are concerned I guess and I have found the EZ Guide to work well at a very affordable price.
I have visited the Festool display at WoodCraft many times checking out their line of tools and I have to say they really have a first class offering in many areas. Every time I hear a glowing review about one of their tools I have to take another look and every time I look I really like what I see. Maybe there is a Festool in my future, you never know
I found myself at Sears a couple weeks ago and couldn't pass up a deal on a small battery drill driver that was 20 bucks. It works great for installing door signs. I installed all the signs in a new building with that little driver on a single charge and it weighs a fraction of my Dewalt battery drills. It doesn't have the same power as the Dewalt but the job at hand didn't require a powerfull drill driver. I expect that the next time I'm on a ladder or scaffold doing a light duty job I will definately reach for the little Craftsman drill
The best tool for the job at hand is often the least expensive tool on the bench
.
Last edited by Keith Outten; 08-04-2007 at 11:49 AM.
Member
I've had the same thing happen to me but if you follow proper procedure you should be relatively safe.
Member
That will get you close if the factory edge is square. But measuring and marking with a pencil and then setting the guide on the marks opens up too many opportunities for errors. I prefer to get it close and then use a crosscut sled.
Greg
Guest
Greg and Dixon,
This is where the EZ Smart really excels. The repeaters make it possible to make very accurate cuts of the same width. You just set the repeaters and cut. For shorter cuts, use the cabinet maker. That is a combination of the square and one repeater. We use it for our cross cutting when making cabinets. Right now, we use the large bridge to rip and then use the repeater to cross cut. Using this system, we have reduced cut out time for a kitchen about 30% when compared to using two unisaws - one with an excaliber sliding table.
Also this gets us back to basics in one area - the Festool guide system was designed to use to supplement a table saw. The EZ System was designed to replace a table saw.
Burt
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