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Thread: Rust Removal

  1. #1

    Unhappy Rust Removal

    I went down to my woodshop and found a large puddle on the floor and rust on my 20" band saw table. We could not find the source of the leak anywhere.

    What are the best ways to remove the rust from the table. I tried rustaway but it dulled the table. Can I ever get it back to like new.

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by Kenneth D. Stein View Post
    I went down to my woodshop and found a large puddle on the floor and rust on my 20" band saw table. We could not find the source of the leak anywhere.

    What are the best ways to remove the rust from the table. I tried rustaway but it dulled the table. Can I ever get it back to like new.

    Thanks
    I stumbled across this a week or so ago:
    Soak a rag in Baking Soda and water (yah plain old baking soda).

    Attach a 12 volt DC battery charger to your table and to the rag which you will lay on the rusty area.

    I think the Positive is the rag.

    Go have coffee.

  3. #3
    I've had good success with Boeshield T9 for loosening the rust up. I applied a liberal coat and let it sit over night. I see that Boeshield also sell a product called Rust Free, but I have not tried it since Lee Valley don't carry it. Next Woodshow I will be getting some to try.

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    WD-40 and tranny fluid, soak, then take a Scotch brite to it, repeat as neccesary...what works for me.

    Al
    Remember our vets, they need our help, just like they helped us.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
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    I've had real good luck soaking older tools in a citric acid bath. You can get it at a homebrewer's supply store pretty cheaply. Heat up some water (warm, not boiling) and stir in the acid crystals until they won't dissolve anymore. Soak a rag in it and drape it over the table. Re-wet every hour or so for "a few" hours (anywhere between 2 and 6, I'd imagine), rubbing with steel wool or scotch-brite pads in between.

    When you're done with the acid soak, it's ESSENTIAL that you get the surface DRY as soon as possible. Borrow your wife's hair dryer or use an air compressor or something, or it'll flash rust on you. Lightly oil or wax and you're all done.
    We few, we happy few, we band of brothers --
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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Smithville Missouri
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    I have heard that muratic acid works great. Supposed to disolve rust instantly, although I have not myself tried it. Have used it for etching concrete for paint and stain before. Definately wear the usual protective gear for it.
    I'm sure others will chime in if this process has been used.
    Been around power equipment all my life and can still count to twenty one nakey

  7. #7
    I usually go the "WD" route with the scotch brite. Then I use a can of brake cleaner spray to pull the oil out, then buff with a protector. If the scotch brite scratches the surface too much and it ain't pretty no more, I found that a 300 grit pad on the orbital sander will provide a nice finished appearance. Just be sure not to put too much pressure on the sander.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Salado, Texas
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    103
    Count me as one who believes in grease. Thats elbow grease, scotchbrite pad, and WD40. I just finished working on my bandsaw and tablesaw. They both look like a new penny. I have tried fine grit sanding with WD40 using a ROS, but elbow grease worked much better.

  9. #9
    Boeshield Rust Free works well actually, I've used it. But it has a HORRIBLE smell...so be prepared for that. But I do think it has dulled out the table a bit though...

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    822
    If the rust is scrubbed off, I'd forget about it. You bought it to use it; it's starting to look broken in.

    Pete

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Uniontown, Pa
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    112
    Quote Originally Posted by John Karam View Post
    Boeshield Rust Free works well actually, I've used it. But it has a HORRIBLE smell...so be prepared for that. But I do think it has dulled out the table a bit though...
    I agree with John on the Boeshield. It will remove the rust no matter how bad. However it will not remove any pitting. And it does infact dull the surface. I restored a 40's Craftsman 4" jointer with it that was heavy with rust. After I applied it three times it was rust free, I then used my 4" grinder with a soft cup wire brush. Ran that over it and then wet sanded( with mineral oil) 320/400/600 grit. Shines like a new penny now. Not as much work as it sounds especially for a 4" jointer, and your BS's table's area should not be much more work. If you go that way apply a good silicone free paste wax regulary. Sears carries the Boeshield as a kit for $19.99, the rust free and rust preventative, which is generally rated number 1 for rust prevention.
    Jim

  12. #12
    Does it hurt a cast iron table saw to be sanded with an orbital sander using very fine grit (600) after applying Boeshield?

    Thanks

    sb

  13. #13
    Rob Will Guest
    The Boeshield will gunk up your sandpaper.
    1. Use the rust remover.
    2. Sand / polish
    3. Apply Boeshield.
    Good stuff.

    Rob

  14. #14
    Rob, at number 2, you indicate sand. Could I use the orbital sander then?

    sb

  15. #15
    Rob Will Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Steven Bolton View Post
    Rob, at number 2, you indicate sand. Could I use the orbital sander then?

    sb
    Steven, I don't see any problem. In fact, I often use my DA with a scuff pad attached to work the "Rust Off" solution. After that, you clean and dry the surface and can polish it however you like.

    The actual "Boeshield" material is a waxy material that you spray on as the last step to protect the surface. Once that is on, all you need is a cloth rag. If you really want a heavy layer, let the Boeshield dry overnight.

    Use good ventilation, eye protection, and possibly some nitrile gloves. The "Rust Off" material is pretty hot stuff.

    Rob

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