Oil VS water based stains

[Bob Durgin]

What are the differences between the 2 beside clean up and smell? Is one better than the other? What do most people prefer? Thanks in advance

[Jim Becker]

I only use water soluable dyes if I need to color a project. Fast dry, easy cleanup and nice ablity to blend during application to keep things eaven. Oil based stains have their place, but most of them have suspended pigments that bring on what many folks consider "blotching" on figured woods. They also have a long cure time and you really need to be careful with subsequent finishing steps. With water soluable dyes, I can apply in the morning and seal with de-waxed shellac an hour or two later and then proceed with any remaining finishing steps.

[Steve Schoene]

Aniline dyes mixed with water are extremely useful, as Jim points out. But in my mind they don't eliminate the usefulness of pigmented stains, which often in conjuction with dye, can enhance grain and add depth to the finish.

Pigmented stains come in two flavors, oil based and water based. I find oil based to be more useful. Yes, it takes longer to cure before applying top coats, but you have enough working time to apply and manipulate the stain for evenness. Water based pigmented stains tend to have acyrlic binders that dry fast enough that it is possible for them to get away from you. If you lose the wet edge you have to deal with
of overlaps that result in streaky appearance. They aren't impossible to use--not that difficult.

[John Wagner]

hi everyone,

Have not been on in a while. I'm just finishing up a blanket chest that I made from ply and a mahogany veneer. Thanks to some of you, the veneer came out great. (my first veneer job). I bought waer soluble analine dye and now I'm getting afraid to use it. Worried about raising the grain. Could I mix it with alcohol instead? Any thoughts?
John Wagner

[Steve Schoene]

Sure you will raise the grain, but it's not the end of the world. There are several ways to deal with this. First, you can pre-raise the grain with distilled water, and sand lightly before you apply the dye. That will reduce but not eliminate the raised grain when you apply hte dye. You can also sand off the raised grain after the dye dries. But the best way, in my opinion, is to use the dye, put on a coat of shellac raised grain and all, then then sand it smooth, with the raised fibers nicely stiffened by the shellac.

If you have powdered water soluble dye you don't have a choice. Moreover, even if you can mix the dye with alcohol you don't want to do that unless you are spraying the dye, and are good with the spray gun. Alcohol mixed dye dries too fast to apply by hand--you're almost sure to get streaks.

Be sure to try the dye on some scrap wood. Start with some relatively concentrated mix and add water until you get the right degree of darkness.

[Steve Clardy]

Oil based stain user here.

Never have used a water base stain

[Joe Chritz]

I'm with Steve. Oil based pigmented stains when stain is needed.

Water or alcohol dye when dye is used. I will even use oil stain over maple when a thin sealcoat is used first. Anymore I either tone the sealcoat a bit or just use transtint or other dye.

I've even had good luck with <GASP!> minwax stains in light colors on oak. Not so much on maple.

Joe