Great planes that don't break the bank?

[Grant Vanbokklen]

Two data points: I got a nice #5 type 19 for $35 last year and a #4 type 17 for $30 this month from Walt. Both arrived in good working condition.

Thanks for the pricing insight. I guess your right, place a bid and walk away, if you win you win if not there is alway more. It would be nice to buy from someone that you can trust though.

[Michael Faurot]

Have you seen that video set by David Charlesworth that I mentioned?

I've not seen them. I've read some of the articles that David Charlesworth has written in Popular Woodworking. Well written articles, but I can't say as I necessarily agree with everything he has to say. In particular, I'm not too fond of the concept of cambering plane blades.

I saw some clips of the 3 series on planes somewhere and that is what got my interest, especially in shooting boards. Do you do any of the techniques with shooting boards? I could rent the three dvd's for about $26 for a week. Not sure I'd want to pay $90 to buy them.

If you'd like to get more of a feel for a shooting board, you can get a copy of the plans for David Charesworth's shooting board in PDF format from Lie-Nielsen's web site.

I've not built this particular shooting board myself, but do use one frequently. It's a great aid for squaring up stock. I've been using the Veritas Low Angle Bevel-Up Jack with mine, coupled with the 25 degree blade (effective angle of 37 degrees) for shooting end grain.

[Jim Koepke]

Thanks Jim, I'm learning. I've not seen that site before. Very helpful for me to understand the Stanley "types" the way that site shows the picture for the differences.

Have you seen that video set by David Charlesworth that I mentioned? I saw some clips of the 3 series on planes somewhere and that is what got my interest, especially in shooting boards. Do you do any of the techniques with shooting boards? I could rent the three dvd's for about $26 for a week. Not sure I'd want to pay $90 to buy them.

I have not seen the videos.

I do have several bench hooks that are sometimes used to do shooting. It seems using a block plane to clean up an end is easier at times.

YMMV

jim

[Jim Koepke]

If you'd like to get more of a feel for a shooting board, you can get a copy of the plans for David Charesworth's shooting board in PDF format from Lie-Nielsen's web site.

Mine are a little different, just about to go out for a while. Will try to take some pics later.

All this talk has me taking pictures of stuff to list on that auction site that shall not be named.

jtk

[Billy Chambless]

It would be nice to buy from someone that you can trust though.

Oh, I agree. If I need a tool right away, I call one of the dealers mentioned, or *gasp* buy new. I do watch ebay for items on my long-term wish list. Recently I got a Craftsman (Sargent) rabbet plane for 17 bucks, and about a quart of pretty good chisels for $21. The chisels included several sizes that I needed, and some of them might have gone individually for $10-20.

[Jim Koepke]

I hope this is the correct forum.

I recently purchased two stanleys at a flea market, but am not sure I have dated them correctly.

1. No. 2, thought it was a 19.
No patent dates, Bailey behind the front knob, Made in USA behind the frog, Raised casting for knob and tote. Black painted, It has a "C" under the tote, no frog adjustment.
2.No. 5 1/2 still in the box, no patent dates, bailey in front of the knob, made in the usa behind, Raised knob and tote casting, all original bown/red paint. no frog adjuster.

I bought both as users and will bring them up to speed.

Any info or advise would be appreciated.

Yours in cast iron dust

Fred

The No. 2 never had the frog adjustment, iirc. Those usually go in the $200 range on the auction site that shall not be named. If it is too small for your hands, I could send you my address. Otherwise, you could auction it or trade it for a bunch of other planes.

It is Okay to gloat if you want to tell us how good a deal you got.

Here are a couple of type studies from my bookmarks. They come in handy if you ever want information on date appropriate parts or as an aid to identify something from a poor quality picture.

https://home.comcast.net/~rarebear/p...ing/typing.htm

Dann Barr posted this one in a previous thread:

http://primeshop.com/access/woodwork...e/pftsynch.htm

Clint Jones posted one he likes:

http://www.hyperkitten.com/tools/sta...l#Types%201-20

It works by typing in the answers to a few questions. For quick typing if you just want a number, this is very good.

If you have a little time, there is a libraries worth of good information in the old threads here.

It will give you a chance to meet a lot of great people with at least one similar interest through their writings.

It may give one a bit of slippery slope overload, but expanding minds only hurt a little, when the head stops swelling.

jim

Nostalgia just ain't what it use to be.

[Grant Vanbokklen]

For the price of one hock blade you can buy a whole plane!

Hock blades seem to have a premium price tag. Are they worth it? Are they the only after-market blade suppliers? What options do you have if you need a new blade for a plane?

[Marcus Ward]

The original blades work fine, the difference is the hock blades are already sharp and square. People have a hard time with the squaring up / initial bevel operation, so they get a hock blade and they're like holy crap! It's the best evar!!! When really all it is is sharpened properly. Learn to sharpen, and pert near any blade will work.

[Jim Koepke]

The original blades work fine, the difference is the hock blades are already sharp and square. People have a hard time with the squaring up / initial bevel operation, so they get a hock blade and they're like holy crap! It's the best evar!!! When really all it is is sharpened properly. Learn to sharpen, and pert near any blade will work.

Just recently, I bought some Hock blades. They are impressive, but there really is not much difference between them and a properly sharpened stock blade.

If you do not know what sharp is, then you could buy one as a benchmark.

I did a post on that just recently.

It was also discovered that an 8000 stone will get a Hock blade slightly sharper than when it is new. My experience is only with the High Carbon blades.

The extra thickness of the Hock blade and chip breaker do make a slight difference in the feel of the plane's action.

The Hock blades are installed in three of my planes. The original blades are being saved.

jim

[Fred Strumpf]

Thanks for the feedback.

$35 at a local fleamarket.

[Jim Koepke]

Thanks for the feedback.

$35 at a local fleamarket.

Heck, I am always confused.

The 5-1/2 is easy to under stand.

Are you saying you picked up a Stanley No.2 for $35 or a type 2 Stanley 5-1/2. I didn't think they came along until later in the making.

Pictures always help.

jim

[Brian Ward]

The Hock blades come with their backs rather well-flattened and therefore do not require much work to sharpen. That alone makes a difference to a lot of people.

The extra thickness has one somewhat minor advantage when it comes to tuning--you don't need to shove the frog as far forward when you're tightening the mouth on a Bailey-style plane. If the frog/bed mating surfaces are a little funky , I could imagine that it could make the process more difficult than usual.

I've got a Hock blade/cap iron set on a jointer, and all of my other planes have the stock blades. With everything sharpened, all of them perform basically the same, but it was kind of enjoyable not to have to mess around with the jointer so much (it didn't have a blade when I assembled it from various pieces, and I didn't feel like playing ebay roulette or whatever).

I recently replaced the cap iron ("chipbreaker") in one of my smoother planes with the Hock version, but kept the stock blade. I like its shape--it's a easier to see the mouth when you're adjusting it, and perhaps there's more room for the chips to clear now (dunno, need to use it more). I had to file a bit off the fastening screw to keep it away from the lever cap.

[Jim Koepke]

I recently replaced the cap iron ("chipbreaker") in one of my smoother planes with the Hock version, but kept the stock blade. I like its shape--it's a easier to see the mouth when you're adjusting it, and perhaps there's more room for the chips to clear now (dunno, need to use it more). I had to file a bit off the fastening screw to keep it away from the lever cap.

By any chance was that a #3? The same thing happened to me. I mentioned it to Ron Hock. He said only a few people have mentioned it. My thought was the screw could be a thread or two shorter.

jim

[Fred Strumpf]

I picked up the no. 2 for $35

The 5 1/2 came in a box with a lot of junk for $30.

I did not buy these from a tool dealer, it was from a young guy tag saling his dad's tools at the flea market. I got there just as he was unpacking. He was happy with what i PAID, and i thought it was a good deal for me, didn't know how good until I started getting feedback from you guys, here and in another thread.

You will see that I am very new to this forum, and look forward to learning a lot more.

Regards

Fred

[Brian Ward]

By any chance was that a #3? The same thing happened to me. I mentioned it to Ron Hock. He said only a few people have mentioned it. My thought was the screw could be a thread or two shorter.

It's a Millers Falls #9 (Stanley #4 size). It would have probably been fine on a real #4 or #5. The rivet that holds the backing spring for the cam is in the exact wrong spot on the MF three-point lever cap. But it was no big deal to file down the cap screw.