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Thread: How would you fix this...

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
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    Stephenville, TX
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    Before trying to pull the trim flush with a screw, you might first take something that won't mar the molding and see if it's possible to push it flush with the wall. If you can't push it flush a screw may not do a great job of pulling it flush either. If you think that will work push it flush against the wall and then put a screw in it. Screws will hold in place better than pulling something down. If the molding is soft material you stand a chance of pulling the head deep in the wood without pulling the molding flush.
    And now for something completely different....

  2. #17
    Join Date
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    If you can remove that section of base, I'd recut, about 1/16" longer to let it bow in, then use one of the methods of drilling and screwing the base down where it pulls into the wall board. I'd be careful about doing something that would pull the wall board toward the base board for fear that it might crack and show through the wall paper. Jim.
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    No, I'm not an electrician. Any information I share is purely what I would do myself. If in doubt, hire an electrician!
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  3. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
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    Glenmoore, PA
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    I am with the others who say find the stud and draw it in with a countersunk screw. If there is no stud, pop the molding off drill hole for toggle bolt reapply and draw it in. From there it becomes a caulk / paint job.

    That said - I also like Brian Brown's idea as well and it is certainly the easiest.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
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    11,301
    Replace the baseboard, once you bend it, you'll find it's too short.

    The other suggestions about trim screws or toggle bolts are what I'd do, once I replaced the baseboard.

    I also don't normally mitre inside corners, I cope them, which can help in these situations.

    Rod.

  5. #20
    YES! Cope your inside corners!

  6. #21
    how about a shim, of sorts?

    pull the baseboard off, eyeball how thick a shim you'll need, glue it on, re-attach... and THEN caulk!!

    the caulk will have something to stick to...

    but the screw trick is also good to close that gap as close as possible, after shimming... Sure is a big gap. You'll have to put that screw in at a downward angle - countersink it - and caulk up that too. Good thing here is that you can hide everything since your painting is white...

    good luck

    Take AFTER pix so we can see how you made out.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    Trussville, AL
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    3,589
    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Banbury View Post
    YES! Cope your inside corners!
    Is their a trick to coping? My one attempt was an abject failure! It was basically cutting a 45 degree miter then using the "finished" line to back cut away from the mitered part.
    Last edited by Jerome Hanby; 07-29-2008 at 3:11 PM. Reason: more info

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Santa Barbara, CA
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    84
    You can do this project on 9/13/08...Cut out that section of drywall, square it up and put in another section of drywall. I'm guessing it will be a 4 hour project tops, from start to cleaning up (minus the wallpaper).

    Afterwards, you can sit down with your favorite beverage and watch the USC Trojans beat the tar out of the Buckeyes that afternoon.

  9. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Banbury View Post
    YES! Cope your inside corners!

    hmmm - did think of that til now... so why not shave off the ends until the whole back is touching...

    do you have a bandsaw?

    Somehow, you could get the EXACT shape by taking a casting, or something like that... then you can draw it on the bottom edge of the baseboard (reversed since its the bottom of course!) and trim that off...

    So how to make a cast????

    Anyone, Bueller?? Beuller?

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