Bad Axe saws worth it? Anyone try Winsor saws?

[Charlie Stanford]

As a side note..... When I ordered my Bad Axe saws, I told them the types and thickness of wood that I expected to use. I never bothered to check the specs on how the blade was cut (pitch, rake, etc), but they cut well, and they are the easiest saws I have to start. My newly sharpened LN probably cuts faster after the cut is started, but it requires more skill to start. For me, a more aggressive saw is more likely to catch and jump when I start the cut. One time, when it jumped, it jumped onto my finger. It hurt, drew some blood, but was not horrid. My only point is that your skill level may indicate that you prefer one saw to another.

Since you live in Columbus Ohio, I know that you can wander into one of our great local stores and even handle some different saws. I was just in the local Woodcraft today, and they carry the Lee Valley saws, which are widely regarded, and they should also have a Rob Cosman saw, which is probably a similar price (I don't remember). One thing about the Rob Cosman saw is that it has a variable pitch specifically to make it easier to start a cut. I vaguely remember that LN may offer that as well.

Interested in what you ended up with, or what you do end up with.

I won't go far as to say I'm skilled with a backsaw but I've used 'em plenty. When I think of somebody who is, people like Ian Kirby come to mind.

That said, I had the L-N dovetail saw and sold it in pretty short order. I could not stand its grabby start and I've never experienced quite anything like it with another saw - crosscut or rip. I have a Crown closed handle dovetail saw that frankly cuts better and did so out of the box. Yep, it's filed crosscut. It sure as hell starts easier and given that the joint is pretty much made or lost at the start it pained me not at all to sell the L-N. I have a Spear and Jackson 12" tenon saw filed rip that starts like butta' so it isn't the rip vs. crosscut bit in play.