Pen finish

[Matthew Barrett]

All you pen turners. What is the best finish you have found?. I use Huts Crystal Coat but I have not tried anything else.

[Ron Raymond]

Check out Russ Fairfield's website www.woodturnerruss.com . Tons of good info there for the CA/BLO finish.

[Jonathon Spafford]

I think most people agree that the two most durable pen finishes are lacquer finish and CA/BLO finish. I have done friction polishes and CA/BLO... friction polishes are quick, but they don't last very long. CA/BLO is a good finish, but you can't bang it around much (which you wouldn't want to do anyway with a good pen) or the finish will crack. I follow the instructions that are on penturners.org for the CA finish. If you go into the library (under forums) and click on Articles 2004, then click on the first article... these are the instructions that I followed and a pretty good pen resulted. Somewhere else there is instructions for a lacquer finish.

Anyway, these two finishes are the most popular finishes for pen turners and people often debate about which is best! Anyway, have fun!

[Jonathon Spafford]

Check out Russ Fairfield's website www.woodturnerruss.com . Tons of good info there for the CA/BLO finish.

Russ Fairfield does have good instructions, but the thing that I like about the instructions I've used is that it doesn't require any sanding sealer or a variable speed lathe.

[Jim Shaver, Oakville Ont]

I am another fan of Russ's information, a super site and great DVD's.

For me, I am a lacquer fan for natural woods, I have not been able to do the CA finish....for stabilized woods and acrylics I use the same fisnish, wet sanding with MM and plastic polish

[Paul Heely]

I have 2 different finishes that I use, depending on the wood. Most woods I use CA/BLO. On others, olive wood in particular, I use a bare wood finish, up through 12000 micro mesh and then buff.

I had a hard time with the CA/BLO finish until I started using a lot less CA and a lot more BLO. Since I adjusted my amounts of CA and BLO I've had much more success with that finish.

[Patrick Taylor]

I've had success with the CA/BLO, but it's not quite glossy enough for me without getting out the buffing wheels. MicroMesh up to 12000, paper bag burnish, HUT crystal coat (many coats) topped with stick wax, set with paper towel friction is what I do most often. I have no long term durability data.

[Dario Octaviano]

95%+ of the time I use CA finish (I don't use BLO) the other 5% is lacquer.

I did use friction polish while learning but after that, I switched to CA almost all the way.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I really like the Enduro product. It is a sealer and finish you put on. I like it a lot better than CA or CA/BLO.

[Stan Cook]

I use CA almost exclusively. No need to put any friction polish over it. It will only wear off. The CA (if done properly) will not wear off. Too many people put too little CA on and end up sanding through it.

I have used lacquer, but I don't care for its cure time - up to a month in some cases.

Enduro is also a really good product and I do use it occasionally. It requires a minimum of two days to apply and cure.

[Steve Trauthwein]

I agree with Stan. The trick to a CA finish is not sanding it off. I put on two coats of thin and three coats of medium with the lathe spinning at a low speed, allow to set between coats, apply with a paper towel. I do not use blo as it has just clouded the issue for me.

When polishing with the micro mesh I immerse it in water prior to the sanding. Keeps the blanks cool and does not clog micro mesh.
Two coats of carnauba based wax as final finish.

Regards, Steve

PS Does not work well with oily woods!

[Dean Matthews]

I must just be a total noob... I have been using the two HUT pen polish sticks. The brown one first (a couple of coats) and then the white one (a few more coats). I "burn" them in using a paper towel that is wadded up. So far all the pens have held up VERY well and they look good (to me at least).

Maybe I am having good luck with them due to my final sanding being a wet sand. I always keep a damp microfiber towel around the lathe and I just touch it to the pen lightly while it is spinning. Then some wet/dry sandpaper until the wet is gone. After sanding I will dampen it again and hold a paper towel up to it to dry it quickly.

So far so good... my Wife's purple heart pen has survived a couple of months in my 4 year olds hands and in her purse... still looks good.

[Stan Cook]

To find out how well your finish holds up, make two pens using the same wood and apply your chosen finish to each pen. Put one in a safe, dry, dark place and do not touch it. Use the other one daily for two or three months. Be sure to carry it in your pocket/purse as most people carry a pen. After a few months, compare the two.

Alternatively, turn a gear shift knob and apply your finish of choice. Install it in your vehicle (which undergoes huge temperature swings daily and is subjected to frigid winters and beastly hot summers, not to mention 5 happy labs and mud from the duck blind/fishing hole/swimming hole). After two years, see if it still shines like glass.

Here's mine.

[Jim Podsedly]

I really like the Enduro product. It is a sealer and finish you put on. I like it a lot better than CA or CA/BLO.

Who sells the Enduro product?

[Patrick Taylor]

95%+ of the time I use CA finish (I don't use BLO)

Dario, I've seen Russ's video on applying CA with BLO, and I also read the article on penturners.org. How does your CA only method differ from those? Do you just apply a coat of CA and let it dry, and repeat?

I find that the BLO helps me smooth the CA with the paper towel before it cures. Any suggestions on doing CA only and maintaining a smooth surface? Any tips on glue viscosity or lathe speed? Does the wood grain still shine without any oil?

I'm all about simple methods, so I'm really interested. Any links to existing write-ups are appreciated.


Thanks,
Pat